My garage wants $254 plus $75 labor to replace the wheel bearing assembly on my Chev G2500 Van. I would like to do it myself to save the money. I used to change and repack bearing on my cars and trucks. Are there any special tools required? Is this job reasonably straight forward? Are there any tricks or short cuts?|||Well, I don%26#039;t know what year it is, and a 2500 would be a GMC, and a Chevy 3/4 ton Van would be a G20 (at least here in the US), but I feel reasonably confident that it is not 4 wheel drive or front wheel drive. There was a company called Vandura which used to do 4 wheel conversions years ago, but otherwise....no.
So anyway, what you%26#039;re looking at is a normal rear wheel drive disc brake rotor that needs to be taken off. Jack that corner of the van up, support it with a jackstand, and take the wheel off (probably a 13/16 inch lug nut). You%26#039;ll need probably a 3/8 inch Allen head wrench to remove the brake caliper retaining bolts. You may need to push the caliper piston in a little bit to remove the caliper, especially if the rotors are scored (grooves in the braking surface). A 6 inch C-clamp, or a prybar or long screwdriver can be used for this. Hang the caliper off of something with some coat-hanger wire, so that it doesn%26#039;t stress the hose.
Remove the dust cap from the middle of the rotor by grabbing the outter edge with a channel lock pliers, or get a screwdriver behind the lip of it, and pry it out a little bit at a time, alternating from one side to the other. Use some sort of pliers to remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Remove the nut, and the outter bearing will come out now. Remove the entire rotor from the spindle. The inner bearing and grease seal will come off with it.
Before you start on the bearing, wipe any grease off the spindle, and check it for wear in the area where the outter and inner bearings mount to it. It may be that this part is damaged, as $254 sounds like an awful lot of money for just the other parts, even if that includes a wheel bearing and a new rotor. If that looks OK, and the bearing isn%26#039;t so bad it damaged the rotor itself, then you should be able to replace just the bearings.
Now there are actually 4 parts to this type of bearing. 2 parts with a cage holding a bunch of roller bearings. The new parts will not be pre-greased. You have to %26quot;pack%26quot; the bearings. The simple way to do this without tools is to smear a big gob of (disc wheel bearing type only) grease into the palm of your hand. Then take the bearing and push the outter edge of the larger side of the bearing into the grease, while cupping your hand, over and over, until the grease is in far enough that it comes out of the gap on the small side. One section until grease comes out other side, then rotate, do that section until full, rotate again, and so forth, all the way around
Now, here comes the fun part. Most people don%26#039;t bother with this, and then have a pro do the whole job over again a few months later. Well, do the rest of the job, and the part they did over again at least. The other 2 parts of the bearing are called the %26quot;races%26quot;. That%26#039;s where the outter part of each of the bearings ride. The roller part of the bearing. Well, guess what? THEY GET WORN OUT TOO!!! Imagine that. LOL
Use a prybar to take out the grease seal, and the inner bearing will fall out. Clean all the inside part of the rotor out. Until you can eat off it.Now look at the other 2 parts you got with the bearings, and locate the old ones inside the rotor. You will need some kind of punch to drive them out. A fairly long one with a pointy tip works best.
You need to hit the part of the race that faces the inside of the rotor, and drive it towards the outside of the rotor. A little bit in one spot, then work your way around a little bit at a time, pushing it out a little bit at a time before moving to the next spot, until it%26#039;s all the way out. Usually will take at least 3-5 times around, working it a little ways out at a time before it comes out.
OK, now here is where it gets tricky. You have to drive the new races in the same way, without accidentally denting the edge, or slipping and gouging the inside where the bearing rides. And if the get ********, you may have to punch the part that%26#039;s in too far back out a little bit again. Even some one like me who has done this many times messes it up once in a while, and has to buy another new bearing. A driver made for this is much easier, so you may want to check with the auto parts store, and see if they have one to loan or rent.
All righty, the rest is easy. Put the greased inner bearing in the back. Drive the new grease seal into the place that goes. Turn the rotor over, and put the outter bearing in place, and while holding it in, place the rotor over the spindle. Start the castle nut onto the threads. Tighten it down further while rotating the rotor, to make sure the bearings go all the way onto the spindle.
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Wow, I always wondered if there was a point where Yahoo! Answers would cut off my post. Now I know, the answer is yes. If you want the rest (including torque and such), I guess you%26#039;ll have to e-mail me, as I%26#039;m too tired to edit it shorter. Include the year.|||The Chevrolet Front Wheel Bearings are easy to replace.
You can defiantly do it yourself, although, it will probably not be like repacking wheel bearings. There will most likely be a hub bearing assembly on the front. Tricks, um, you will need a torque wrench, and the proper torquing specs if you have a 4 wheel drive van.
Otherwise, http://mibearings.com will provide you the hub bearing assemblies for at least half that price, and if you need the torque specs too, they%26#039;ll help you out.
Good Luck!|||Absolutely friend, pick up a HAYNES or a CHILTON%26#039;S repair book .It may have critical application specific instructions for your specific YEAR %26amp; MODEL of van.It may even have a specific bearing load setting.I do recommend at least an inspection and repack of the other wheel bearing .Be sure to use heavy duty high temp wheel bearing grease and a NEW PIN FOR THE CASTLE NUT.
I do think your costs are reversed though ,I can see $254.00 in labor for 3 hours of work (assuming that cost is for doing both bearings ?)
$75.00 or less for 1 set of wheel bearings (definitely shop around check with ADVANCED AUTO PARTS,AUTO-ZONE,MURRAYS and NAPA.
The dealer will be the highest cost .
Tools needed vary by vehicle ,but are explained in the repair reference books I previously mentioned .
You will save a lot of money doing it yourself .|||If it%26#039;s RWD only, then it shouldn%26#039;t be much more difficult than my Dodge 3/4T van. More or less the exact same process as replacing the brake rotor, except you pry out the old bearings from the rotor and put new ones in. Take the tire off, take the brakes off, pop out the dust cap, remove each nut and washer, use a large screwdriver to pry the bearings.|||no tricks and no short cuts. if your going to do the job then do it right. it,s not hard if you know what to do and have the tools. it,s better if you change the inner and outer both. just take off the caliper, pull the rotor and take out the grease seal and the inner bearing. pull the dust cap off and take out the outer bearing. take a punch or drift and drive out the bearing races and put the new races in. you can use a big socket to drive the races in. grease up the inner bearing, put it in and put a new grease seal in. now for the front. put the rotor and caliper back on, grease up the bearing, put it in along with the washer and put the nut back on and adjust the bearing and stick a new cotter pin in the spindle and install the cap.|||if it%26#039;s front wheel drive it%26#039;s different than what your used to. but easily done that%26#039;s why they only charge an hr, labor but probably rear wheel drive. the only trick I know is after you rock the rotor to get the outside bearing out put the washer and castle nut back on so as you pull it off it takes out the back bearing and seal.|||No, it%26#039;s not hard. You just remove the dust cap, the cotter key, and pull the hub off the spindle. The new one should be pre greased so it%26#039;s ready to install. Just make sure there is no galling or rust on the spindle before installation. make sure the bearing is seated and reinstall nut. (check torque specs on that) Some nuts are finger tight, others want 25 ftpnds. And some use a regular axle nut that has to have around 150 to 200.
No special tools required other than the right socket and a torque wrench.|||a blind person could do it yes not hard remove center dust cap remove cotter key pin unscrew nut remove washer font bearing falls out replace washer and nut give rotor a good tug rear bearing wil pop out remove nut washer your done about easy type into search box
how to remove wheel bearing
how to remove wheel bearing video
how to pack wheel bearing
how to pack wheel bearing video
how to pack bearing you put a dob of grease in plam of hand and push bearing on a angle til grease comes thru other side when you replace bearing might want to get a rear seal for hub tap it in easy with hammer when replacing nut tighten it up tight then back off to fit pin thru hole pretty much it no way wold it cost that much might cost 100 or less and not that hard of a job if you can remove tire you can remove bearing get both inter an d outer bearing|||you got some good advice here, just wanted to add...pay special attention to the spindle after you remove the old bearings and hub, if it has any (and i mean any) damage, replace it. i learned this the hard way, going 60 mph down the freeway, when my wheel passed me up.
it doesnt take much damage to do it .|||Not too hard a job. Get a long piece of round bar, about 12 inches long by 1/4 to 3/8 diameter. Grind it on one end into a slight angle on one side. You need this to drive out the inner bearing. Punches usually chip, because they%26#039;re too hard. When you reinstall the inner bearing, make sure it%26#039;s %26quot;seated%26quot; or all the way down in the hub. Make sure it%26#039;s the right way in, that can be tricky..good luck|||Replacing the assembly is relatively straight forward. If you are replacing just the bearing, an automobile machine shop can press the bearing for you once you%26#039;ve removed the assembly.
Don|||is it 4 wheel drive? depending on the year the hub and wheel bearing come as an assembly. no special tools required.|||A wheel bearing no matter what vehicle needs to be done at mechanics as its gotta be pressed using a special machine.
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