The garage told me my wheel bearing is worn out, I just had my service done including wheels alignment. Now, he told me the part needs to be ordered and later another alignment needs doing after the change. Is this true?|||you should not need an alignment if just the wheel bearing(hub) was replaced.
and yeah, as stated above, always nice if ya mention the year make and model of car|||In theory - no - the alignment should still be correct, but if they are a reputable garage they should check/adjust it again for free - because if they say it needs doing AFTER changing the bearing, they should not have done it with a worn out bearing in the first place.
In fact, tracking should only ever be done when it has been confirmed that all steering, suspension and wheel components are in good condition, because any worn or damaged parts make the reading and setting of alignment incorrect.|||The wheel bearings do not alter the tracking in any way, other than when they are worn. And then that is only slight..
Yours does not need re-tracking if its only a change of wheel bearings.
======================================鈥?br>
On the other hand, if they tracked your vehicle with badly worn bearings then yes it will need tracking again..
But a skilled mechanic would have checked the wheel bearings first. And if faulty would not have done the tracking until after the bearing change.
So you should not be charged twice for the same thing..|||No.Not unless your first alignment was done by an amateur who tracked your wheels with a collapsed bearing.
The only time you would need a re-alignment is if the track rod has been removed or adjusted.None of these are necessary during wheel bearing change.|||A wheel bearing change does not necessitate wheel alignment.
If you see uneven tyre wear when comparing the offside and nearside front tyre tread, then you need alignment.|||It might well, depends on how much strip down is needed. Anyway if the previous was done with a bad wheel bearing it might be a bit out.|||Only if your vehicle has camber adjustment and the steering knuckle has to come off. Nice to mention what you drive!|||any change on suspension needs to be aligned again if not it will just wear through your tyres but its up to you
Friday, June 3, 2011
How do i change the rear wheel bearing on a 1999 dodge stratus?
I just did the rear brakes on my stratus and realized my bearing is getting bad. Is it hard to change? Some info would be great. Thanks|||Wheel Bearings are very easy to replace. In most cases, you will need a torque wrench. in some cases, you will need a hydraulic press. If a hydraulic press is needed, you can take a bearing purchased from the internet to a local shop to have it pressed on.
New wheel bearings can be purchased online from http://mibearings.com
they have very good quality bearings|||It%26#039;s a whole hub assembly that bolts in. It%26#039;s either $54 or $78, depending on if you have ABS or not.
So you won%26#039;t need a bearing press.
www.checkerauto.com|||Yes considering the bearing are pressed in. Do you have a slide hammer? No.. this isn%26#039;t something you will be able to do. Labour time to do both front bearings are 3.0 book time. Take it to a shop.
-apprentice mechanic
New wheel bearings can be purchased online from http://mibearings.com
they have very good quality bearings|||It%26#039;s a whole hub assembly that bolts in. It%26#039;s either $54 or $78, depending on if you have ABS or not.
So you won%26#039;t need a bearing press.
www.checkerauto.com|||Yes considering the bearing are pressed in. Do you have a slide hammer? No.. this isn%26#039;t something you will be able to do. Labour time to do both front bearings are 3.0 book time. Take it to a shop.
-apprentice mechanic
How to change a wheel bearing in 2001 poniac sunfire,how will I no if its bad?
Jack up the front of the car, rotate the suspect wheel and you will hear grindings and squeks, the wheel bearing is bad !!
To change the bearing remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper, remove the disc, take out the old bearing and install a new one, oh ya grease the thing first, and reassemble the whole mess and no more noise - a simple Sat. morning job.|||front or rear just type into search box
how to replace wheel bearing
how to replace wheel bearing 2001 Pontiac sunfire
not real hard job either way
autozone.com
top of page can find place part price and get a how to replace it info
To change the bearing remove the wheel, remove the brake caliper, remove the disc, take out the old bearing and install a new one, oh ya grease the thing first, and reassemble the whole mess and no more noise - a simple Sat. morning job.|||front or rear just type into search box
how to replace wheel bearing
how to replace wheel bearing 2001 Pontiac sunfire
not real hard job either way
autozone.com
top of page can find place part price and get a how to replace it info
How do you change a wheel bearing 2x4 S-10? (not blazer)?
I have seen a few questions on 4x4 blazers but nothing on 2x4 s-10. i was wondering if i did it myself, will petboys or somewhere be able to press the bearing in and out for me? I havnt ever done anything in the hub or bearing area so if someone has done thing, what would be the dificulty rating and how much would a dealer and other shop charge? I do plan on getting a manual if i do this myself.|||You don%26#039;t have a sealed bearing on your truck. You will have inner and outer wheel bearings and they don%26#039;t have to be pressed on.|||If you have an inner and outer bearing in the front hub you will still have to have the races pressed out and new ones pressed in. You can drive them with a soft punch-but having a shop press them is safest if you feel uncomfortable doing it. A rear axle bearing will have to pressed off and on the axle as well. You can certainly do the rest of the work yourself and simply take the hub or axle to a machine shop.
Edit, DO NOT change the bearing cone without changing the outer race as well. That would a real waste of a new bearing.|||OK, first things first.
If you%26#039;re gonna change out wheel bearings, the only pressing that needs to be done is the bearing race. Any local shop with a shop press can do that for you, and it shouldn%26#039;t cost too much.
However, if your race isn%26#039;t damaged (grooves or pits dug into it; they don%26#039;t have to be deep), you may not have to replace it. Look at it closely before replacing it.
If you have never done the job or aren%26#039;t terribly mechanically inclined, I would suggest letting a professional do it. It wouldn%26#039;t be a good thing to be rolling along and see a wheel rolling past you that looks like your wheel. It could turn out to be your wheel, and that could mean really bad things.
Edit, DO NOT change the bearing cone without changing the outer race as well. That would a real waste of a new bearing.|||OK, first things first.
If you%26#039;re gonna change out wheel bearings, the only pressing that needs to be done is the bearing race. Any local shop with a shop press can do that for you, and it shouldn%26#039;t cost too much.
However, if your race isn%26#039;t damaged (grooves or pits dug into it; they don%26#039;t have to be deep), you may not have to replace it. Look at it closely before replacing it.
If you have never done the job or aren%26#039;t terribly mechanically inclined, I would suggest letting a professional do it. It wouldn%26#039;t be a good thing to be rolling along and see a wheel rolling past you that looks like your wheel. It could turn out to be your wheel, and that could mean really bad things.
How do I break a wheel-bearing hub free from steering knuckle?
Need to change a front wheel-bearing on a 97 Chevy Cavalier. The bearing is in a pre-assembled hub. I removed the three bolts holding the hub to the steering knuckle but couldn%26#039;t get the bearing out because it seemed to be rusted in there. I tried using Seafoam (rust remover) and that didn%26#039;t seem to change anything... and I have pretty well pried and hammered at it with small tools. What would a shop use to get it off? Please be specific if you know... like the name of tools or equipment and possibly where I can get them or rent them. Thanks!|||Keep on smashing at it with a larger sledge and keep putting the knocker loose to it. If you use heat you could damage the knuckle. Patience and a bigger sledge will prevail.
Good luck.|||with a hammer a rubber one called a mallet|||You need a Slide Hammer or your never going to get it off.
Good luck.|||with a hammer a rubber one called a mallet|||You need a Slide Hammer or your never going to get it off.
How much should i pay for wheel bearing change???
my car is making a humming noise that seems to get faster with speed and im told it could be the wheel bearings
car is a ford escort 1998
how hard are they to change myself?
how much would a garage charge?|||You could do it yourself or pay around $75. in labor, are you around Asheville, NC?|||Wheel bearings are simple to change,maybe just need to be repacked.Any person that works on cars can tell you how.If you take it to a garage you are taking a chance of getting ripped off,don%26#039;t take me wrong,there are good honest garages out there,just not enough of them.|||are you in uk or us?
Wheel bearings are hard to do yourself, you tend to have to have a huge machine to do it (ive done in on work experience)
it can cost as little as a tenner.|||ford escort has pressed sealed bearings on front.... get price of bearing and call around for hourly labor rates....should take no more than 1 hour per side|||You need an extractor and a simple press to do it yourself ,for just the cost of the bearings,ford spares are generally cheap.I have put them in using a block of plastic and a mallet.|||Have a phone around to price up the bearing, then add on around 拢35 for an hours labour, the last bearing i brought was a one piece bearing for a Renault and that was 拢16.
The hrdest thing about getting the old one out is getting the outer bearing race out most garages have a press to do this and on the last time i used one to press out a race it took 3 and a half tons of presssure to get the thing out another time i tapped it out using a punch tapping the opposite sides and it takes bleeding ages.|||Simple job, DIY!!
You may need a clutch puller though to remove the old bearing if it is extremely tight....no huge machines involved!
On the other hand, the bearings may just need tightening up and greasing.....try this first and save time and money!
Good luck!
Mike.
car is a ford escort 1998
how hard are they to change myself?
how much would a garage charge?|||You could do it yourself or pay around $75. in labor, are you around Asheville, NC?|||Wheel bearings are simple to change,maybe just need to be repacked.Any person that works on cars can tell you how.If you take it to a garage you are taking a chance of getting ripped off,don%26#039;t take me wrong,there are good honest garages out there,just not enough of them.|||are you in uk or us?
Wheel bearings are hard to do yourself, you tend to have to have a huge machine to do it (ive done in on work experience)
it can cost as little as a tenner.|||ford escort has pressed sealed bearings on front.... get price of bearing and call around for hourly labor rates....should take no more than 1 hour per side|||You need an extractor and a simple press to do it yourself ,for just the cost of the bearings,ford spares are generally cheap.I have put them in using a block of plastic and a mallet.|||Have a phone around to price up the bearing, then add on around 拢35 for an hours labour, the last bearing i brought was a one piece bearing for a Renault and that was 拢16.
The hrdest thing about getting the old one out is getting the outer bearing race out most garages have a press to do this and on the last time i used one to press out a race it took 3 and a half tons of presssure to get the thing out another time i tapped it out using a punch tapping the opposite sides and it takes bleeding ages.|||Simple job, DIY!!
You may need a clutch puller though to remove the old bearing if it is extremely tight....no huge machines involved!
On the other hand, the bearings may just need tightening up and greasing.....try this first and save time and money!
Good luck!
Mike.
I have a bad wheel bearing, will changing the hub fix it?
depends on the car.
some hubs have the bearing sealed within in and it can%26#039;t be replaced by itself, the whole assembly gets replaced.
Others the bearing has to be pressed out and a new bearing pressed in.|||if the hub and bearing come together then yes. If it just the bearing that you buy seperately, then no.|||Have the car inspected and replace the damaged parts, a hub may not fix a bad bearing., If the bearing did not damage the hub replace the bearing only.
some hubs have the bearing sealed within in and it can%26#039;t be replaced by itself, the whole assembly gets replaced.
Others the bearing has to be pressed out and a new bearing pressed in.|||if the hub and bearing come together then yes. If it just the bearing that you buy seperately, then no.|||Have the car inspected and replace the damaged parts, a hub may not fix a bad bearing., If the bearing did not damage the hub replace the bearing only.
Why after changing front wheel bearing & ball joint do i still have side to side play on my transit?
if you do,then better check the tie rods.|||Check the steering box for adjustment
|||cause your drunk|||Depending on the year, you may have worn bushings. If you have them, check control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. Maybe body roll from worn shocks/springs also?|||changing the ball jointand bearing will not totally eliminate the side play on your transit. The problem is in your steering box. Worn out bush or bearing inside the gear box is the usual cause of this problem.
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|||cause your drunk|||Depending on the year, you may have worn bushings. If you have them, check control arm bushings and sway bar bushings. Maybe body roll from worn shocks/springs also?|||changing the ball jointand bearing will not totally eliminate the side play on your transit. The problem is in your steering box. Worn out bush or bearing inside the gear box is the usual cause of this problem.
How do i change a wheel bearing on a 02 taurus?
What tools do i need? how long does it take? Can i replace just the bad side?|||Unless you have an air powered impact gun you%26#039;ll need the following: A deep well 32 mm socket. A 16%26quot; breaker bar. 3%26#039; feet of black iron pipe to slide over the breaker bar handle for leverage. A pitman arm puller to release the lower ball joint and tie-rod end. A tray of shallow well metric sockets. A 16%26quot; ratchet. A 5 ton three finger gear puller. Jack stands. Floor Jack. A large ball pein or small maul hammer.
If you%26#039;ve never done this before it%26#039;s best to invest in a Haynes or Chiltons manual for detailed instructions. With clear sailing it%26#039;s a two hour job at home. It%26#039;s perfectly acceptable to replace the %26quot;noisy%26quot; side only.|||wheel bearing or cv joint for a wheel bearing you be working the back wheel since its front wheel drive remove nut and washer pull it off but if your talking about front thats a cv joint the axle and bearing come out as one part and best you replace it all both sides better but one side can be but if you think about it one is wore out the other not far|||which 1 are you working on? the back or front. the front is harder then the back and yes you can just replace the bad 1.|||Yes you can just replace the bad side.
I suggest that you purchase USA made wheel bearings.
MIBearings LLC has USA made wheel bearings. They are top quality and will last a lot longer than most wheel bearings.
If you%26#039;ve never done this before it%26#039;s best to invest in a Haynes or Chiltons manual for detailed instructions. With clear sailing it%26#039;s a two hour job at home. It%26#039;s perfectly acceptable to replace the %26quot;noisy%26quot; side only.|||wheel bearing or cv joint for a wheel bearing you be working the back wheel since its front wheel drive remove nut and washer pull it off but if your talking about front thats a cv joint the axle and bearing come out as one part and best you replace it all both sides better but one side can be but if you think about it one is wore out the other not far|||which 1 are you working on? the back or front. the front is harder then the back and yes you can just replace the bad 1.|||Yes you can just replace the bad side.
I suggest that you purchase USA made wheel bearings.
MIBearings LLC has USA made wheel bearings. They are top quality and will last a lot longer than most wheel bearings.
How do i change the wheel bearing on a 96 pontiac grand prix?
Is this pressed in? how hard is the job?|||It is a complete assembly, a sealed unit. It is called a hub bearing and they are relatively easy to change. Jack and support the car, remove the tires, brake caliper, caliper mount and remove the rotor. Remove the axle nut, Tap axle shaft inward it ensure in will come out when hub is removed. Locate and remove the hub bearing to spindle mounting bolts. Once the mounting bolts are removed, tap on the inside edge of the bearing(Where the heads of the lug studs are) firmly with a hammer while moving from one side to the other working you way around until it falls out. If sensor are present, carefully fish them out or remove first. Depending on sensor type.
Keep an eye on the backing plate location so when you put the new hub bearing in, it is in the proper position with the backing plate.
Now bolt everything back, put the axle nut on and tighten, rotor, caliper mount then the caliper and brakes. mount tire and spin to make sure nothing like the rotor and backing plate are touching and making noise. Plug the wheel speed sensor in if it has one and you are done.
This is assuming that it is a front hub bearing. If it is the back, they are even easier.
Keep an eye on the backing plate location so when you put the new hub bearing in, it is in the proper position with the backing plate.
Now bolt everything back, put the axle nut on and tighten, rotor, caliper mount then the caliper and brakes. mount tire and spin to make sure nothing like the rotor and backing plate are touching and making noise. Plug the wheel speed sensor in if it has one and you are done.
This is assuming that it is a front hub bearing. If it is the back, they are even easier.
I changed a wheel bearing on my 2000 saturn i didnt move tire rod ends at all, after i put it back together?
the steering wheel is about a 1/4 turn off . What did I do?|||DO NOT move the steering wheel. That is totally wrong. The rack is designed for %26#039;center feel%26#039; in the center. The tie rods are designed to be parallel to the lower control arms on center. Don%26#039;t mess with that. That%26#039;s not supposed to be changed.
Now, I don%26#039;t really know what you did that changed it - the bearing shouldn%26#039;t change the alignment at all. You may want to double check the installation of the bearing to the hub, to see if all the bolts pulled it up completely. I don%26#039;t know what else to tell you.
As you know, the tie rods can both be adjusted to set it on center, but it bothers me that it ever got off center.|||You can reset the steering wheel from the steering rack or
move the steering wheel over, but be careful if you have an
airbag. Whichever is easy. I personally would get an alignment
Only about 50 bucks.
Now, I don%26#039;t really know what you did that changed it - the bearing shouldn%26#039;t change the alignment at all. You may want to double check the installation of the bearing to the hub, to see if all the bolts pulled it up completely. I don%26#039;t know what else to tell you.
As you know, the tie rods can both be adjusted to set it on center, but it bothers me that it ever got off center.|||You can reset the steering wheel from the steering rack or
move the steering wheel over, but be careful if you have an
airbag. Whichever is easy. I personally would get an alignment
Only about 50 bucks.
How much problem is it to change front wheel bearing on driver's side in 1991 Pont Bonneville?
I would say the average backyard mechanic should be able to change the wheel bearing in about 45 minutes provided you have the proper tools.
Is it easy to change wheel bearing in dodge intrepid?
not the front one ,it isn%26#039;t easy to do at all, those press in and the spindle has to be removed to do this,if its rear one its a lot easier but the fronts are a lot harder to do,and unless you have a press and know how to do this,you could mess the spindle up or even break it,i have seen a lot of those break when a new bearing was being pressed in,so be careful when doing this one,good luck.|||your welcome,yes its a better to let a shop do this one,this way their responsible for it if it breaks,good luck.
|||that is wrong the front wheel bearings are bolted in but you need to unbolt the lower ball joint and the nut on the axel .
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|||that is wrong the front wheel bearings are bolted in but you need to unbolt the lower ball joint and the nut on the axel .
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How do you change a wheel bearing on a BA Falcon?
Is it a sealed unit?|||I%26#039;ve had the opportunity to do this self-repair job. It ain%26#039;t too fun. It will take you all day for 4 wheels if you have AWD and if it%26#039;s all wheel drive, you have to buy the entire hub assembly because the wheel bearings are sealed and not replaceable. It%26#039;s about a three hour job for each front wheel and an hour or so on the back for the average do it yourself-er like me. I take breaks but an obsessive-compulsive can probably do all wheels in four hours if you already have the parts. You can get everything you need Autozone. The front assemblies are the most expensive at about $170 each. The dealer will charge you $350 each for the fronts and that doesn%26#039;t include installation.
Step by step:
Remove the tire
Remove the entire brake caliper and use string/wire to hang it out of the way. DO NOT LET THE BRAKE HOSE SUSPEND THE CALIPER! DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG FROM THE BRAKE HOSE! Use something to hold it out of the way other than the brake hose.
Remove the large locking nut on the center of the hub. Do not re-use it. Get a new one for reassembly. That sucker is on there big-time tight so you will need an impact wrench. You will not be able to remove it unless you have a 6 foot cheater bar or an impact wrench and I%26#039;ve never seen a 6 foot cheater bar. If you don%26#039;t have an impact wrench you will not succeed at this project. Go to Lowe%26#039;s and pick up an electric one for 40 bucks. They%26#039;re awesome for removing lawnmower blades too! Do this before you take things apart so you can drive your car. :)
After removing the hub lock nut, remove 3 bolts behind the hub assembly that hold the assembly to the strut.
Remove the wiring for the antilock. It runs up the wheel well and into the engine compartment.
After everything is unbolted/unwired, remove the hub assembly by pulling it. You may need a may need a rubber hammer or some leverage to get it to move. Be careful not to damage the splines on the spindle once the hub is removed.
Do everthing in reverse to put it back on.
Get a Chilton%26#039;s repair guide to help. They%26#039;ve got good pictures of the parts. You can get these at Autozone as well. Autozone is nationwide so I%26#039;m sure there%26#039;s one near you somewhere. If not, any other parts store should have the same stuff. You must ensure you torque the bolts to the correct lbs and a repair guide will give you these numbers for your year model.
Once you%26#039;re done, have a beer and remember, you have another front wheel to go and two on the back. The back is easier. :) |||A very particular job that should not be attempted by diy. If you must, you need to get a repair manual at auto supply and follow directions carefully. If you do it wrong you will be in big trouble when wheel comes off while driving.
Step by step:
Remove the tire
Remove the entire brake caliper and use string/wire to hang it out of the way. DO NOT LET THE BRAKE HOSE SUSPEND THE CALIPER! DO NOT LET THE CALIPER HANG FROM THE BRAKE HOSE! Use something to hold it out of the way other than the brake hose.
Remove the large locking nut on the center of the hub. Do not re-use it. Get a new one for reassembly. That sucker is on there big-time tight so you will need an impact wrench. You will not be able to remove it unless you have a 6 foot cheater bar or an impact wrench and I%26#039;ve never seen a 6 foot cheater bar. If you don%26#039;t have an impact wrench you will not succeed at this project. Go to Lowe%26#039;s and pick up an electric one for 40 bucks. They%26#039;re awesome for removing lawnmower blades too! Do this before you take things apart so you can drive your car. :)
After removing the hub lock nut, remove 3 bolts behind the hub assembly that hold the assembly to the strut.
Remove the wiring for the antilock. It runs up the wheel well and into the engine compartment.
After everything is unbolted/unwired, remove the hub assembly by pulling it. You may need a may need a rubber hammer or some leverage to get it to move. Be careful not to damage the splines on the spindle once the hub is removed.
Do everthing in reverse to put it back on.
Get a Chilton%26#039;s repair guide to help. They%26#039;ve got good pictures of the parts. You can get these at Autozone as well. Autozone is nationwide so I%26#039;m sure there%26#039;s one near you somewhere. If not, any other parts store should have the same stuff. You must ensure you torque the bolts to the correct lbs and a repair guide will give you these numbers for your year model.
Once you%26#039;re done, have a beer and remember, you have another front wheel to go and two on the back. The back is easier. :) |||A very particular job that should not be attempted by diy. If you must, you need to get a repair manual at auto supply and follow directions carefully. If you do it wrong you will be in big trouble when wheel comes off while driving.
How do I remove the front wheel hub to expose the bearing on a Honda Fourtrax 1985?
Honda Fourtrax 250
Trying to change the wheel bearing.|||assuming this is a 4 wheeler? should just be able to take the 4 nuts that hold on the wheel and then the center one for the brake drum and slide it off, the bearings should be right there then.|||remove wheel remove large center nut the drum and hub probly wont just slide off this is a 1985 things are probly a little rusted up so keep trying
Trying to change the wheel bearing.|||assuming this is a 4 wheeler? should just be able to take the 4 nuts that hold on the wheel and then the center one for the brake drum and slide it off, the bearings should be right there then.|||remove wheel remove large center nut the drum and hub probly wont just slide off this is a 1985 things are probly a little rusted up so keep trying
How do I change rear Wheel bearing on 1995 geo metro?
I got the hub off. I popped out the bearing that faces the bolts the tires go on but i cant seem to get the back one out that faces the brakes. PLEASE HELP!|||Don%26#039;t know, but some have a cartridge that has both the bearing in it, %26amp; you just swap in a new cartridge....
Go to the library %26amp; see if they have a Chilton or a Motor%26#039;s repair manual, and copy the pages....
Go to the library %26amp; see if they have a Chilton or a Motor%26#039;s repair manual, and copy the pages....
How do I change a Wheel bearing on a 1989 Chevy Cavalier?
I actually need to know how to remove the seal from the old bearing and install the new one. Getting the axel out of the way has me stumped.|||This procedure requires the use of a number of special tools.
Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands. Place the jackstands under the frame so that the front suspension hangs freely.
Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
If a silicone (gray) boot is used on the inboard axle joint, place boot seal protector J-33162 or equivalent. If a thermoplastic (black) boot is used, no seal protector is necessary.
Insert a drift punch through the rotor cooling vanes to lock the rotor in place and remove the hub nut and washer. Clean the drive axle threads of all dirt and grease. Discard the nut and washer.
Fig. 1: Insert a drift into the rotor when removing the hub nut
Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle as outlined in this section.
Attach a puller, G.M. part no. J-28733 or the equivalent, and remove the bearing. If corrosion is present, make sure the bearing is loose in the knuckle before using the puller.
Move the axle shaft inward and support at an angle near the normal drive angle.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor, as follows:
Remove the caliper mounting bolts.
Remove the caliper from the knuckle and suspend from a length of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose. Pull the rotor from the knuckle.
Unfasten the three hub and bearing attaching bolts. If the old bearing is to be reused, match mark the bolts and holes for installation. If equipped, the brake rotor splash shield will have to come off, too.
Clean the mating surfaces of all dirt and corrosion. Check the knuckle bore and knuckle seal for damage. If a new bearing is to be installed, remove and discard the old knuckle seal and replace with a new one during installation.
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the hub and bearing assembly and related components - 1989 vehicle shown
To install:
Position the hub and bearing assembly and splash shield (if equipped) on the steering knuckle and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Grease the lips of the new seal before installation; install with a seal driver made for the purpose, G.M. tool no. J-28671 or the equivalent.
Fig. 3: Use a seal driver when installing the new seal into the steering knuckle
Install the rotor and caliper. Be sure that the caliper hose isn%26#039;t twisted. Install the caliper bolts and tighten to 21-38 ft. lbs. (28-51 Nm).
Position the axle shaft into the hub and bearing assembly.
Insert a drift in the rotor, then install a new hub nut and washer. Use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 185 ft. lbs. (260 Nm).
Fasten the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Remove the drift and the boot seal protector (if used).
Install the wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicles.
Raise and safely support the vehicle with jackstands. Place the jackstands under the frame so that the front suspension hangs freely.
Remove the front tire and wheel assembly.
If a silicone (gray) boot is used on the inboard axle joint, place boot seal protector J-33162 or equivalent. If a thermoplastic (black) boot is used, no seal protector is necessary.
Insert a drift punch through the rotor cooling vanes to lock the rotor in place and remove the hub nut and washer. Clean the drive axle threads of all dirt and grease. Discard the nut and washer.
Fig. 1: Insert a drift into the rotor when removing the hub nut
Separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle as outlined in this section.
Attach a puller, G.M. part no. J-28733 or the equivalent, and remove the bearing. If corrosion is present, make sure the bearing is loose in the knuckle before using the puller.
Move the axle shaft inward and support at an angle near the normal drive angle.
Remove the brake caliper and rotor, as follows:
Remove the caliper mounting bolts.
Remove the caliper from the knuckle and suspend from a length of wire. Do not allow the caliper to hang from the brake hose. Pull the rotor from the knuckle.
Unfasten the three hub and bearing attaching bolts. If the old bearing is to be reused, match mark the bolts and holes for installation. If equipped, the brake rotor splash shield will have to come off, too.
Clean the mating surfaces of all dirt and corrosion. Check the knuckle bore and knuckle seal for damage. If a new bearing is to be installed, remove and discard the old knuckle seal and replace with a new one during installation.
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the hub and bearing assembly and related components - 1989 vehicle shown
To install:
Position the hub and bearing assembly and splash shield (if equipped) on the steering knuckle and install the retaining bolts. Tighten the bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Grease the lips of the new seal before installation; install with a seal driver made for the purpose, G.M. tool no. J-28671 or the equivalent.
Fig. 3: Use a seal driver when installing the new seal into the steering knuckle
Install the rotor and caliper. Be sure that the caliper hose isn%26#039;t twisted. Install the caliper bolts and tighten to 21-38 ft. lbs. (28-51 Nm).
Position the axle shaft into the hub and bearing assembly.
Insert a drift in the rotor, then install a new hub nut and washer. Use a torque wrench to tighten the nut to 185 ft. lbs. (260 Nm).
Fasten the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
Remove the drift and the boot seal protector (if used).
Install the wheel and tire assembly, then carefully lower the vehicles.
I had a wheel bearing changed yet the noise continues, what could it be?
I drive a 98 R reg renault clio, i recently had my master cylinder changed and the mechanic told me i also needed the front right bearing changing so i had that changed. But when I%26#039;m driving every so often the car makes a whirring noise as if somethings grinding, i would have thought the bearing change would have sorted it but it did for about a couple of days only but now the noise has began again. it%26#039;ll be silent for a couple of seconds then the noise will happen for a couple of seconds, on off kinda. i believe the noise is coming from the front right wheel, but i could be wrong... what could be the cause and how serious is it?|||there are a couple of things that come to mind about what could be causing the noise. one is the brakes are dragging on the right front, two is the bearing was not installed correctly or three the noise was actually caused by a worn out C-V joint on the right front half shaft (Axel). i am not familiar with the Renault Clio and i am assuming it%26#039;s a front wheel drive vehicle. does the noise get louder when you are turning???
it will need to checked over by a/the mechanic to make sure|||Cheap brake pads.
it will need to checked over by a/the mechanic to make sure|||Cheap brake pads.
How to change a escort wheel bearing?
hi i have a 98 escort and need to change the wheel bearing. are they easy to change. i have done them on older cars but not a escort before.|||The first two answers are incorrect. An Escort has a non-serviceable sealed wheel bearing hub assembly. It%26#039;s quite involved to change without the proper tools. The actual wheel bearing hub assembly is pressed into the spindle. The rear%26#039;s are relatively easy to change but the fronts require separating the lower ball joint, removing the outside CV joint shaft nut, pressing the CV shaft out of the wheel bearing hub assembly and removal of the three wheel bearing hub bolts on the reverse side of the spindle. If you%26#039;re extremely lucky you can use a small one pound sledge hammer and tap the old bearing from the inside of the spindle outward.
Lightly sand off the corrosion from the inside of the spindle and apply a thin coating of never seize to the inside of the spindle. Use the three hardened bolts to equally pull the new wheel bearing back inside the spindle.|||Easy enough just fiddly.
If you replace the bearings replace using the kit as the casings might be worn.
I%26#039;m in work now but will edit post later with instructions.
edit : the book I have is for a 97 escort, the system should be the same.
with front bearings you need to take caliper and disc off
take spindle/hub off
remove bearings and tap out casings
inner casing might be left on hub and will need to be pulled off (i used to tap it off too)
refitting is the same in reverse order be sure not to damage bearings or casings(i used to tap bearing cases in using old bearing and a hammer/screwdriver)
if it%26#039;s rear bearing they are even easier as you don%26#039;t need to take as much off but is same in principal as front ones.
I offer this as a basic guide, not what to do exactly so do so at your own risk. Personally I would get a Haynes manual before doing it.|||They are dead easy and straight forward on 98 escorts, if you have done it before on an older car the only main difference if the fact that you need to remove the drive shaft from the hub.
To do this part the lower tie end and then remove the centre nut holding the drive shaft in place. Pull the whole brake/shock assembly out towards yourself and then push the drive shaft backwards out of the hub.
Ja.|||If you have changed your car get yourself a Haynes manual, this gives you all the details the best tips and exploded views of the problem. I always get a Haynes on the vehicle I have. But on my latest I am afraid they have not one yet since Fiat have not realest the details to them yet it%26#039;s to new. but I have for years have used this even my friends in the garages use it more than the official work Manuals. or just see if your local library has a copy. just take your car details with you to make sure you have the right manual|||It depends on if they are in the hub or not, if they are then it is harder because they have to be repacked and heated out of the hub, if there is not hub it is not that big of a deal but i would take it to a shop because you don%26#039;t want to have the bearing put on wrong.|||first... open the door and let the clutch out.
:)
Lightly sand off the corrosion from the inside of the spindle and apply a thin coating of never seize to the inside of the spindle. Use the three hardened bolts to equally pull the new wheel bearing back inside the spindle.|||Easy enough just fiddly.
If you replace the bearings replace using the kit as the casings might be worn.
I%26#039;m in work now but will edit post later with instructions.
edit : the book I have is for a 97 escort, the system should be the same.
with front bearings you need to take caliper and disc off
take spindle/hub off
remove bearings and tap out casings
inner casing might be left on hub and will need to be pulled off (i used to tap it off too)
refitting is the same in reverse order be sure not to damage bearings or casings(i used to tap bearing cases in using old bearing and a hammer/screwdriver)
if it%26#039;s rear bearing they are even easier as you don%26#039;t need to take as much off but is same in principal as front ones.
I offer this as a basic guide, not what to do exactly so do so at your own risk. Personally I would get a Haynes manual before doing it.|||They are dead easy and straight forward on 98 escorts, if you have done it before on an older car the only main difference if the fact that you need to remove the drive shaft from the hub.
To do this part the lower tie end and then remove the centre nut holding the drive shaft in place. Pull the whole brake/shock assembly out towards yourself and then push the drive shaft backwards out of the hub.
Ja.|||If you have changed your car get yourself a Haynes manual, this gives you all the details the best tips and exploded views of the problem. I always get a Haynes on the vehicle I have. But on my latest I am afraid they have not one yet since Fiat have not realest the details to them yet it%26#039;s to new. but I have for years have used this even my friends in the garages use it more than the official work Manuals. or just see if your local library has a copy. just take your car details with you to make sure you have the right manual|||It depends on if they are in the hub or not, if they are then it is harder because they have to be repacked and heated out of the hub, if there is not hub it is not that big of a deal but i would take it to a shop because you don%26#039;t want to have the bearing put on wrong.|||first... open the door and let the clutch out.
:)
What do i need to change a wheel bearing on a Ford explorer sport 01 model?
I have the hub assbly. for front right do i also need axle bearing while im into it? do i need to do other front wheel bearing while im into it? do i need new seals or is hub all i need? also is there a special seal puller or sumn i need please help soon|||It sounds as though you have some %26quot;sticky%26quot; problems with your Ford explorer sport 01 model vehicle, and your %26quot;picture%26quot; accompanying your question would present you as being a *female* questioner!!
Um-m-m-m -- *I* would need to know a whole lot more about your *real* knowledge about trying to do any mechanical repair work, *YOURSELF*, if this is what you%26#039;re asking for.|||It help to know if it is four wheel drive or not. Usually it is a sealed unit that comes as a bearing with seals and the part your wheel bolts to. I suspect three to four bolts hold it to the spindle.|||on 4 wheel drives the hub is pressed in then you need to rent tools at your local auto parts store and a repair manuel on your auto helps too.
on 2 wheel drives the hub is part of the rotors, then yes do both sides ,bearings and seals, you can ask the auto guys if they can put the races in the hub for you, or buy the book and race driver and do it yourself...good luck
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
Um-m-m-m -- *I* would need to know a whole lot more about your *real* knowledge about trying to do any mechanical repair work, *YOURSELF*, if this is what you%26#039;re asking for.|||It help to know if it is four wheel drive or not. Usually it is a sealed unit that comes as a bearing with seals and the part your wheel bolts to. I suspect three to four bolts hold it to the spindle.|||on 4 wheel drives the hub is pressed in then you need to rent tools at your local auto parts store and a repair manuel on your auto helps too.
on 2 wheel drives the hub is part of the rotors, then yes do both sides ,bearings and seals, you can ask the auto guys if they can put the races in the hub for you, or buy the book and race driver and do it yourself...good luck
http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>
Any one know how to change rear wheel bearing on 95 camaro ?
i have a 95 camaro , one mechanic said i need to replace the left wheel bearing. i bought one and thought id replace it. I took the wheel off and moved it back and fourth ,,, doesnt seem loose ..or move ... seems ok to me...do i need to replace it??.So i thought i would just take the cap off and replace the bearing..anyway...
nope......not made that way ...... how do i get to it? four bolts on the back plate? any help would be great. thanks.|||not to sound like a smart azz, but on a rear axle bearing on that car....if you have to ask...dont attempt it. minor differential disassembly is needed as well as a slide hammer with a bearing puller attachment. sounds like you are a little over your head on this one...
take it to a 2nd mechanic and get another opinion....|||NEVER replace any part till you know the problem. Do you have oil leak around axle ? If the bearing is bad it will wipe out the oil seal. Do you have any leakage, oil or brake fluid ? If you must do this go to auto parts store and purchase a CHILTONS manual for your vehicle. The bearing replacement requires the removal of the axle and can get you in trouble if you don%26#039;t know what you are doing. I would not tackle it on a %26quot;mekaniks%26quot; say so.|||I%26#039;m sure Tronary is right. I%26#039;ve never looked at the part in question on a %26#039;95 Camaro, but I%26#039;ll bet anything that you have to remove the axle right up to the differential.
And if you drive it untill it fails, then you%26#039;ve probably ruined the axle.
So if you%26#039;re not sure of what you are doing, you%26#039;d better have a garage do it.|||That bearing will not do anything to the axle seal. If you have a roaring noise, it is quite possible it is a bearing. You have to remove the wheel. You have to remove the cover off the differential. Rotate the drive shaft until you see a little 5/6%26quot; bolt that goes through the roll pin. Take that little bolt out, then the pin will slide out. Do not turn the drive shaft with this pin out or you will have a hell of a time getting all of your gears lined back up. Grab the left rear hub and push the axle straight in. You will feel it stop. Do not turn it. A C-clip should fall off the axle into the differential. When that clip is off, you can slide the axle straight out. When the axle is out, you can pull the axle seal, and if you are quite handy with that axle, if you let the end of it catch the seal, it will yank the seal right out for you. Now you can see the bearing. You will need a bearing puller to get the bearing out. Just make sure the rear axles and drive shaft don%26#039;t turn with the the axle or the roll pin out. Putting all of those gears back where they go is a pain. Get yourself a bearing installer also and knock the new bearing into place. Put the new seal in. Slide the axle straight in, without turning it. Slide it all the way in, put the C-clip back in, pull the axle back toward you to set the clip in its groove. Put the roll pin back in and put the little bolt back in that holds it. Put some sealer on the cover and bolt it back on. On the front of the differential is a plug that a ratchet will fit into. Take that plug out and refill the rear end with about 3 quarts of 80w90 gear oil, until it runs out of that hole. Put the plug back in and tighten it. Put your wheel back on and do your thing. Good luck.
nope......not made that way ...... how do i get to it? four bolts on the back plate? any help would be great. thanks.|||not to sound like a smart azz, but on a rear axle bearing on that car....if you have to ask...dont attempt it. minor differential disassembly is needed as well as a slide hammer with a bearing puller attachment. sounds like you are a little over your head on this one...
take it to a 2nd mechanic and get another opinion....|||NEVER replace any part till you know the problem. Do you have oil leak around axle ? If the bearing is bad it will wipe out the oil seal. Do you have any leakage, oil or brake fluid ? If you must do this go to auto parts store and purchase a CHILTONS manual for your vehicle. The bearing replacement requires the removal of the axle and can get you in trouble if you don%26#039;t know what you are doing. I would not tackle it on a %26quot;mekaniks%26quot; say so.|||I%26#039;m sure Tronary is right. I%26#039;ve never looked at the part in question on a %26#039;95 Camaro, but I%26#039;ll bet anything that you have to remove the axle right up to the differential.
And if you drive it untill it fails, then you%26#039;ve probably ruined the axle.
So if you%26#039;re not sure of what you are doing, you%26#039;d better have a garage do it.|||That bearing will not do anything to the axle seal. If you have a roaring noise, it is quite possible it is a bearing. You have to remove the wheel. You have to remove the cover off the differential. Rotate the drive shaft until you see a little 5/6%26quot; bolt that goes through the roll pin. Take that little bolt out, then the pin will slide out. Do not turn the drive shaft with this pin out or you will have a hell of a time getting all of your gears lined back up. Grab the left rear hub and push the axle straight in. You will feel it stop. Do not turn it. A C-clip should fall off the axle into the differential. When that clip is off, you can slide the axle straight out. When the axle is out, you can pull the axle seal, and if you are quite handy with that axle, if you let the end of it catch the seal, it will yank the seal right out for you. Now you can see the bearing. You will need a bearing puller to get the bearing out. Just make sure the rear axles and drive shaft don%26#039;t turn with the the axle or the roll pin out. Putting all of those gears back where they go is a pain. Get yourself a bearing installer also and knock the new bearing into place. Put the new seal in. Slide the axle straight in, without turning it. Slide it all the way in, put the C-clip back in, pull the axle back toward you to set the clip in its groove. Put the roll pin back in and put the little bolt back in that holds it. Put some sealer on the cover and bolt it back on. On the front of the differential is a plug that a ratchet will fit into. Take that plug out and refill the rear end with about 3 quarts of 80w90 gear oil, until it runs out of that hole. Put the plug back in and tighten it. Put your wheel back on and do your thing. Good luck.
Can an average mechanically inclined person change the front wheel bearing assembly on 3/4T Chev Van?
My garage wants $254 plus $75 labor to replace the wheel bearing assembly on my Chev G2500 Van. I would like to do it myself to save the money. I used to change and repack bearing on my cars and trucks. Are there any special tools required? Is this job reasonably straight forward? Are there any tricks or short cuts?|||Well, I don%26#039;t know what year it is, and a 2500 would be a GMC, and a Chevy 3/4 ton Van would be a G20 (at least here in the US), but I feel reasonably confident that it is not 4 wheel drive or front wheel drive. There was a company called Vandura which used to do 4 wheel conversions years ago, but otherwise....no.
So anyway, what you%26#039;re looking at is a normal rear wheel drive disc brake rotor that needs to be taken off. Jack that corner of the van up, support it with a jackstand, and take the wheel off (probably a 13/16 inch lug nut). You%26#039;ll need probably a 3/8 inch Allen head wrench to remove the brake caliper retaining bolts. You may need to push the caliper piston in a little bit to remove the caliper, especially if the rotors are scored (grooves in the braking surface). A 6 inch C-clamp, or a prybar or long screwdriver can be used for this. Hang the caliper off of something with some coat-hanger wire, so that it doesn%26#039;t stress the hose.
Remove the dust cap from the middle of the rotor by grabbing the outter edge with a channel lock pliers, or get a screwdriver behind the lip of it, and pry it out a little bit at a time, alternating from one side to the other. Use some sort of pliers to remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Remove the nut, and the outter bearing will come out now. Remove the entire rotor from the spindle. The inner bearing and grease seal will come off with it.
Before you start on the bearing, wipe any grease off the spindle, and check it for wear in the area where the outter and inner bearings mount to it. It may be that this part is damaged, as $254 sounds like an awful lot of money for just the other parts, even if that includes a wheel bearing and a new rotor. If that looks OK, and the bearing isn%26#039;t so bad it damaged the rotor itself, then you should be able to replace just the bearings.
Now there are actually 4 parts to this type of bearing. 2 parts with a cage holding a bunch of roller bearings. The new parts will not be pre-greased. You have to %26quot;pack%26quot; the bearings. The simple way to do this without tools is to smear a big gob of (disc wheel bearing type only) grease into the palm of your hand. Then take the bearing and push the outter edge of the larger side of the bearing into the grease, while cupping your hand, over and over, until the grease is in far enough that it comes out of the gap on the small side. One section until grease comes out other side, then rotate, do that section until full, rotate again, and so forth, all the way around
Now, here comes the fun part. Most people don%26#039;t bother with this, and then have a pro do the whole job over again a few months later. Well, do the rest of the job, and the part they did over again at least. The other 2 parts of the bearing are called the %26quot;races%26quot;. That%26#039;s where the outter part of each of the bearings ride. The roller part of the bearing. Well, guess what? THEY GET WORN OUT TOO!!! Imagine that. LOL
Use a prybar to take out the grease seal, and the inner bearing will fall out. Clean all the inside part of the rotor out. Until you can eat off it.Now look at the other 2 parts you got with the bearings, and locate the old ones inside the rotor. You will need some kind of punch to drive them out. A fairly long one with a pointy tip works best.
You need to hit the part of the race that faces the inside of the rotor, and drive it towards the outside of the rotor. A little bit in one spot, then work your way around a little bit at a time, pushing it out a little bit at a time before moving to the next spot, until it%26#039;s all the way out. Usually will take at least 3-5 times around, working it a little ways out at a time before it comes out.
OK, now here is where it gets tricky. You have to drive the new races in the same way, without accidentally denting the edge, or slipping and gouging the inside where the bearing rides. And if the get ********, you may have to punch the part that%26#039;s in too far back out a little bit again. Even some one like me who has done this many times messes it up once in a while, and has to buy another new bearing. A driver made for this is much easier, so you may want to check with the auto parts store, and see if they have one to loan or rent.
All righty, the rest is easy. Put the greased inner bearing in the back. Drive the new grease seal into the place that goes. Turn the rotor over, and put the outter bearing in place, and while holding it in, place the rotor over the spindle. Start the castle nut onto the threads. Tighten it down further while rotating the rotor, to make sure the bearings go all the way onto the spindle.
_____________________________________
Wow, I always wondered if there was a point where Yahoo! Answers would cut off my post. Now I know, the answer is yes. If you want the rest (including torque and such), I guess you%26#039;ll have to e-mail me, as I%26#039;m too tired to edit it shorter. Include the year.|||The Chevrolet Front Wheel Bearings are easy to replace.
You can defiantly do it yourself, although, it will probably not be like repacking wheel bearings. There will most likely be a hub bearing assembly on the front. Tricks, um, you will need a torque wrench, and the proper torquing specs if you have a 4 wheel drive van.
Otherwise, http://mibearings.com will provide you the hub bearing assemblies for at least half that price, and if you need the torque specs too, they%26#039;ll help you out.
Good Luck!|||Absolutely friend, pick up a HAYNES or a CHILTON%26#039;S repair book .It may have critical application specific instructions for your specific YEAR %26amp; MODEL of van.It may even have a specific bearing load setting.I do recommend at least an inspection and repack of the other wheel bearing .Be sure to use heavy duty high temp wheel bearing grease and a NEW PIN FOR THE CASTLE NUT.
I do think your costs are reversed though ,I can see $254.00 in labor for 3 hours of work (assuming that cost is for doing both bearings ?)
$75.00 or less for 1 set of wheel bearings (definitely shop around check with ADVANCED AUTO PARTS,AUTO-ZONE,MURRAYS and NAPA.
The dealer will be the highest cost .
Tools needed vary by vehicle ,but are explained in the repair reference books I previously mentioned .
You will save a lot of money doing it yourself .|||If it%26#039;s RWD only, then it shouldn%26#039;t be much more difficult than my Dodge 3/4T van. More or less the exact same process as replacing the brake rotor, except you pry out the old bearings from the rotor and put new ones in. Take the tire off, take the brakes off, pop out the dust cap, remove each nut and washer, use a large screwdriver to pry the bearings.|||no tricks and no short cuts. if your going to do the job then do it right. it,s not hard if you know what to do and have the tools. it,s better if you change the inner and outer both. just take off the caliper, pull the rotor and take out the grease seal and the inner bearing. pull the dust cap off and take out the outer bearing. take a punch or drift and drive out the bearing races and put the new races in. you can use a big socket to drive the races in. grease up the inner bearing, put it in and put a new grease seal in. now for the front. put the rotor and caliper back on, grease up the bearing, put it in along with the washer and put the nut back on and adjust the bearing and stick a new cotter pin in the spindle and install the cap.|||if it%26#039;s front wheel drive it%26#039;s different than what your used to. but easily done that%26#039;s why they only charge an hr, labor but probably rear wheel drive. the only trick I know is after you rock the rotor to get the outside bearing out put the washer and castle nut back on so as you pull it off it takes out the back bearing and seal.|||No, it%26#039;s not hard. You just remove the dust cap, the cotter key, and pull the hub off the spindle. The new one should be pre greased so it%26#039;s ready to install. Just make sure there is no galling or rust on the spindle before installation. make sure the bearing is seated and reinstall nut. (check torque specs on that) Some nuts are finger tight, others want 25 ftpnds. And some use a regular axle nut that has to have around 150 to 200.
No special tools required other than the right socket and a torque wrench.|||a blind person could do it yes not hard remove center dust cap remove cotter key pin unscrew nut remove washer font bearing falls out replace washer and nut give rotor a good tug rear bearing wil pop out remove nut washer your done about easy type into search box
how to remove wheel bearing
how to remove wheel bearing video
how to pack wheel bearing
how to pack wheel bearing video
how to pack bearing you put a dob of grease in plam of hand and push bearing on a angle til grease comes thru other side when you replace bearing might want to get a rear seal for hub tap it in easy with hammer when replacing nut tighten it up tight then back off to fit pin thru hole pretty much it no way wold it cost that much might cost 100 or less and not that hard of a job if you can remove tire you can remove bearing get both inter an d outer bearing|||you got some good advice here, just wanted to add...pay special attention to the spindle after you remove the old bearings and hub, if it has any (and i mean any) damage, replace it. i learned this the hard way, going 60 mph down the freeway, when my wheel passed me up.
it doesnt take much damage to do it .|||Not too hard a job. Get a long piece of round bar, about 12 inches long by 1/4 to 3/8 diameter. Grind it on one end into a slight angle on one side. You need this to drive out the inner bearing. Punches usually chip, because they%26#039;re too hard. When you reinstall the inner bearing, make sure it%26#039;s %26quot;seated%26quot; or all the way down in the hub. Make sure it%26#039;s the right way in, that can be tricky..good luck|||Replacing the assembly is relatively straight forward. If you are replacing just the bearing, an automobile machine shop can press the bearing for you once you%26#039;ve removed the assembly.
Don|||is it 4 wheel drive? depending on the year the hub and wheel bearing come as an assembly. no special tools required.|||A wheel bearing no matter what vehicle needs to be done at mechanics as its gotta be pressed using a special machine.
So anyway, what you%26#039;re looking at is a normal rear wheel drive disc brake rotor that needs to be taken off. Jack that corner of the van up, support it with a jackstand, and take the wheel off (probably a 13/16 inch lug nut). You%26#039;ll need probably a 3/8 inch Allen head wrench to remove the brake caliper retaining bolts. You may need to push the caliper piston in a little bit to remove the caliper, especially if the rotors are scored (grooves in the braking surface). A 6 inch C-clamp, or a prybar or long screwdriver can be used for this. Hang the caliper off of something with some coat-hanger wire, so that it doesn%26#039;t stress the hose.
Remove the dust cap from the middle of the rotor by grabbing the outter edge with a channel lock pliers, or get a screwdriver behind the lip of it, and pry it out a little bit at a time, alternating from one side to the other. Use some sort of pliers to remove the cotter pin from the castle nut. Remove the nut, and the outter bearing will come out now. Remove the entire rotor from the spindle. The inner bearing and grease seal will come off with it.
Before you start on the bearing, wipe any grease off the spindle, and check it for wear in the area where the outter and inner bearings mount to it. It may be that this part is damaged, as $254 sounds like an awful lot of money for just the other parts, even if that includes a wheel bearing and a new rotor. If that looks OK, and the bearing isn%26#039;t so bad it damaged the rotor itself, then you should be able to replace just the bearings.
Now there are actually 4 parts to this type of bearing. 2 parts with a cage holding a bunch of roller bearings. The new parts will not be pre-greased. You have to %26quot;pack%26quot; the bearings. The simple way to do this without tools is to smear a big gob of (disc wheel bearing type only) grease into the palm of your hand. Then take the bearing and push the outter edge of the larger side of the bearing into the grease, while cupping your hand, over and over, until the grease is in far enough that it comes out of the gap on the small side. One section until grease comes out other side, then rotate, do that section until full, rotate again, and so forth, all the way around
Now, here comes the fun part. Most people don%26#039;t bother with this, and then have a pro do the whole job over again a few months later. Well, do the rest of the job, and the part they did over again at least. The other 2 parts of the bearing are called the %26quot;races%26quot;. That%26#039;s where the outter part of each of the bearings ride. The roller part of the bearing. Well, guess what? THEY GET WORN OUT TOO!!! Imagine that. LOL
Use a prybar to take out the grease seal, and the inner bearing will fall out. Clean all the inside part of the rotor out. Until you can eat off it.Now look at the other 2 parts you got with the bearings, and locate the old ones inside the rotor. You will need some kind of punch to drive them out. A fairly long one with a pointy tip works best.
You need to hit the part of the race that faces the inside of the rotor, and drive it towards the outside of the rotor. A little bit in one spot, then work your way around a little bit at a time, pushing it out a little bit at a time before moving to the next spot, until it%26#039;s all the way out. Usually will take at least 3-5 times around, working it a little ways out at a time before it comes out.
OK, now here is where it gets tricky. You have to drive the new races in the same way, without accidentally denting the edge, or slipping and gouging the inside where the bearing rides. And if the get ********, you may have to punch the part that%26#039;s in too far back out a little bit again. Even some one like me who has done this many times messes it up once in a while, and has to buy another new bearing. A driver made for this is much easier, so you may want to check with the auto parts store, and see if they have one to loan or rent.
All righty, the rest is easy. Put the greased inner bearing in the back. Drive the new grease seal into the place that goes. Turn the rotor over, and put the outter bearing in place, and while holding it in, place the rotor over the spindle. Start the castle nut onto the threads. Tighten it down further while rotating the rotor, to make sure the bearings go all the way onto the spindle.
_____________________________________
Wow, I always wondered if there was a point where Yahoo! Answers would cut off my post. Now I know, the answer is yes. If you want the rest (including torque and such), I guess you%26#039;ll have to e-mail me, as I%26#039;m too tired to edit it shorter. Include the year.|||The Chevrolet Front Wheel Bearings are easy to replace.
You can defiantly do it yourself, although, it will probably not be like repacking wheel bearings. There will most likely be a hub bearing assembly on the front. Tricks, um, you will need a torque wrench, and the proper torquing specs if you have a 4 wheel drive van.
Otherwise, http://mibearings.com will provide you the hub bearing assemblies for at least half that price, and if you need the torque specs too, they%26#039;ll help you out.
Good Luck!|||Absolutely friend, pick up a HAYNES or a CHILTON%26#039;S repair book .It may have critical application specific instructions for your specific YEAR %26amp; MODEL of van.It may even have a specific bearing load setting.I do recommend at least an inspection and repack of the other wheel bearing .Be sure to use heavy duty high temp wheel bearing grease and a NEW PIN FOR THE CASTLE NUT.
I do think your costs are reversed though ,I can see $254.00 in labor for 3 hours of work (assuming that cost is for doing both bearings ?)
$75.00 or less for 1 set of wheel bearings (definitely shop around check with ADVANCED AUTO PARTS,AUTO-ZONE,MURRAYS and NAPA.
The dealer will be the highest cost .
Tools needed vary by vehicle ,but are explained in the repair reference books I previously mentioned .
You will save a lot of money doing it yourself .|||If it%26#039;s RWD only, then it shouldn%26#039;t be much more difficult than my Dodge 3/4T van. More or less the exact same process as replacing the brake rotor, except you pry out the old bearings from the rotor and put new ones in. Take the tire off, take the brakes off, pop out the dust cap, remove each nut and washer, use a large screwdriver to pry the bearings.|||no tricks and no short cuts. if your going to do the job then do it right. it,s not hard if you know what to do and have the tools. it,s better if you change the inner and outer both. just take off the caliper, pull the rotor and take out the grease seal and the inner bearing. pull the dust cap off and take out the outer bearing. take a punch or drift and drive out the bearing races and put the new races in. you can use a big socket to drive the races in. grease up the inner bearing, put it in and put a new grease seal in. now for the front. put the rotor and caliper back on, grease up the bearing, put it in along with the washer and put the nut back on and adjust the bearing and stick a new cotter pin in the spindle and install the cap.|||if it%26#039;s front wheel drive it%26#039;s different than what your used to. but easily done that%26#039;s why they only charge an hr, labor but probably rear wheel drive. the only trick I know is after you rock the rotor to get the outside bearing out put the washer and castle nut back on so as you pull it off it takes out the back bearing and seal.|||No, it%26#039;s not hard. You just remove the dust cap, the cotter key, and pull the hub off the spindle. The new one should be pre greased so it%26#039;s ready to install. Just make sure there is no galling or rust on the spindle before installation. make sure the bearing is seated and reinstall nut. (check torque specs on that) Some nuts are finger tight, others want 25 ftpnds. And some use a regular axle nut that has to have around 150 to 200.
No special tools required other than the right socket and a torque wrench.|||a blind person could do it yes not hard remove center dust cap remove cotter key pin unscrew nut remove washer font bearing falls out replace washer and nut give rotor a good tug rear bearing wil pop out remove nut washer your done about easy type into search box
how to remove wheel bearing
how to remove wheel bearing video
how to pack wheel bearing
how to pack wheel bearing video
how to pack bearing you put a dob of grease in plam of hand and push bearing on a angle til grease comes thru other side when you replace bearing might want to get a rear seal for hub tap it in easy with hammer when replacing nut tighten it up tight then back off to fit pin thru hole pretty much it no way wold it cost that much might cost 100 or less and not that hard of a job if you can remove tire you can remove bearing get both inter an d outer bearing|||you got some good advice here, just wanted to add...pay special attention to the spindle after you remove the old bearings and hub, if it has any (and i mean any) damage, replace it. i learned this the hard way, going 60 mph down the freeway, when my wheel passed me up.
it doesnt take much damage to do it .|||Not too hard a job. Get a long piece of round bar, about 12 inches long by 1/4 to 3/8 diameter. Grind it on one end into a slight angle on one side. You need this to drive out the inner bearing. Punches usually chip, because they%26#039;re too hard. When you reinstall the inner bearing, make sure it%26#039;s %26quot;seated%26quot; or all the way down in the hub. Make sure it%26#039;s the right way in, that can be tricky..good luck|||Replacing the assembly is relatively straight forward. If you are replacing just the bearing, an automobile machine shop can press the bearing for you once you%26#039;ve removed the assembly.
Don|||is it 4 wheel drive? depending on the year the hub and wheel bearing come as an assembly. no special tools required.|||A wheel bearing no matter what vehicle needs to be done at mechanics as its gotta be pressed using a special machine.
Whats the easiest way to change a wheel bearing on a car.?
i have a 1989 toyota corolla and have recently been feeling and hearing a huming noise when i drive coming from my tires.i tried to figure it out but found it difficult to reach the bearing.how would one go about reaching and changing it in the esiest way or if there is a website where i can find more info such as drawings.|||I think that you will have cv joints on the front that could be the problem. Otherwise bearings should be right behind the bearing caps on the end of the axleS. Not a toyota guy but this might help.
http://www.all-parts.com/diagnostics/mec鈥?/a>|||well its not a easie job you have to the wheel off pull ur hub assembly off beings its corola its more then likley a pressd bearing take the whole bub into machine shop and have them press out the old wheel beairng and press in the new put the hub assembly back on and get it alighned you could also cheat and just buy a new hub assembly if its cheap enough that might be a easier route|||dude your avatar looks like sanjaya|||i would rather bring it to a professional mechanic. to get to the bearing you have to remove the tire, disassemble the brakes, drop the tie-rod,remove the shock absorber mount and pull out the bearing. this will be very hard to do with out a mechanical lift and dangerous to do it with jacks. secondly, it is so messy cleaning up the bearing assembly and repacking the new bearing with new grease,you better be ready to get really dirty! I tell you it would be worth every penny to have it done at a shop! may the divine light lead you to the right solution.......and dont forget that your car is a front wheel drive,if you mess up something while disassembling or during reassembly, you%26#039;re gonna be in a big, big mess!|||Check the parts lists at such sites as partsamerica.com, they may be a sealed unit.
http://www.all-parts.com/diagnostics/mec鈥?/a>|||well its not a easie job you have to the wheel off pull ur hub assembly off beings its corola its more then likley a pressd bearing take the whole bub into machine shop and have them press out the old wheel beairng and press in the new put the hub assembly back on and get it alighned you could also cheat and just buy a new hub assembly if its cheap enough that might be a easier route|||dude your avatar looks like sanjaya|||i would rather bring it to a professional mechanic. to get to the bearing you have to remove the tire, disassemble the brakes, drop the tie-rod,remove the shock absorber mount and pull out the bearing. this will be very hard to do with out a mechanical lift and dangerous to do it with jacks. secondly, it is so messy cleaning up the bearing assembly and repacking the new bearing with new grease,you better be ready to get really dirty! I tell you it would be worth every penny to have it done at a shop! may the divine light lead you to the right solution.......and dont forget that your car is a front wheel drive,if you mess up something while disassembling or during reassembly, you%26#039;re gonna be in a big, big mess!|||Check the parts lists at such sites as partsamerica.com, they may be a sealed unit.
Is it hard to change a wheel bearing?
on a 1998 chevy blazer 4x4 is it hard to change a wheel bearing on the front left side? is it something that a rookie macanic can do in the drive way?|||lol preload is old school these ones are so easy i can do whole job and test drive in like 20 min take of the wheel brakecaliper and moting bracket and rotor then remove the three bolts that are on the inside kinda triangle shape pattern u might have to pry it out once unbolted then put new one in you might have to tap it in with a hammer make sure holes are aligned before tapping it in then bolt it up sounds harder than really is|||who knows|||i wouldnt recommend it there are pins and keepers that have to be put back exactly as they came out..without special tools you cant do it anyway.|||I have never seen one of these but it would depend on wether the bearing was pressed in with a hydraulic press. What you would normally do is remove the wheel take out a split pin and there hopefully is a nut holding the wheel hub on which has to be removed.. After this hopefully you should be able to use a hammer and drift to drive the bearing out remembering to work around it and not hitting it in one spot.. Hope this helps|||front wheel bearings are very simple to change,,, rear wheel bearings will require more work but can be done at home with the proper tools,, myself i would never pay to have someone do it for me, i have always done my own repairs witin reason|||yes it is something that a rookie mechanic can do in the drive way if and only if you have the tools needed and a little common sense. always look at what you are about to do and make a list of the tools you might need nothing sucks more that starting a job on you vehicle and find out later that you don%26#039;t have the tools that you need|||You will need special tools. You may be able to rent the tools. It is not easy. It will be like changing a CV joint. You will have to separate the ball joints, tie-rods, and so on to remove the whole spindle off the shaft. Unless you are pretty experienced, I would take to a shop.|||As a retired mechanic I reccommend you NOT attempt this. Lacking the proper experience you could have a wheel lock up and kill someone. Even if you got it back together and it seemed to work ok, you could have a preload too tight and overheat the bearings. Or too loose and it could come apart.|||Nope its easy as burping, but then I%26#039;ve been doing it for 30 years!
There are special tools and precautions that need to be used. The job is more difficult due to the locking hub assemblies.
I would suggest if you insist on DIY, invest in a Chilton%26#039;s manual. That will guide you through the process.
There are special tools and precautions that need to be used. The job is more difficult due to the locking hub assemblies.
I would suggest if you insist on DIY, invest in a Chilton%26#039;s manual. That will guide you through the process.
How to change wheel bearing on 1999 hyundai lantra? I cannot get disc off the hub, need diagram/instructions?
Removed castellated nut, screws and brake caliper. Trying to force off the brake disc but it just wont budge. I cant drive the car to a garage so I desperately need help. Am I missing a step? I dont have a manual so if anyone knows where I can get instructions or a diagram... or any ideas?|||spray pb blaster around the center and use a rubber hammer and see if it will pop off. it,s probably rusted on.|||Autozone has quite a bit of repair info on their site. You could try looking it up there.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairi鈥?/a>|||Use a rubber hammer and whack the disc.
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/repairi鈥?/a>|||Use a rubber hammer and whack the disc.
Do I need a press to change a front wheel bearing?
I have a 2005 chevy cobalt. Does any one know if I need a press to change a wheel bearing?|||On the front of your 2005 Chevrolet Cobalt, there is a hub assembly.
You can purchase these hub bearing assemblies from http://mibearings.com
You will not need a hydraulic press or any other press to install these hubs.|||Not familiar with your vehicle.
However on most you can Tap out the outer cones
or seats pressed into the hubs with a small punch
trapping gently around the inner protruding edges.
And tap back into place with hammer (If there%26#039;s space)
then finish off with a punch, double
check the bearing seats properly
though.
Good Luck.
Cheers Mars Mission.|||You probably will have to buy a wheel hub assembly, which will include bearings and abs sensors and will be bolted to the steering knuckle.
So in short, no.|||You can use a large socket and a hammer to get the old ones out. Press the new ones in after heating the shell to expand the metal. Too easy. You do not need a press.|||I suspect that this is a bearing and hub assembly - sold only as an assembly.
No press needed - just a Gold Master Card.
You can purchase these hub bearing assemblies from http://mibearings.com
You will not need a hydraulic press or any other press to install these hubs.|||Not familiar with your vehicle.
However on most you can Tap out the outer cones
or seats pressed into the hubs with a small punch
trapping gently around the inner protruding edges.
And tap back into place with hammer (If there%26#039;s space)
then finish off with a punch, double
check the bearing seats properly
though.
Good Luck.
Cheers Mars Mission.|||You probably will have to buy a wheel hub assembly, which will include bearings and abs sensors and will be bolted to the steering knuckle.
So in short, no.|||You can use a large socket and a hammer to get the old ones out. Press the new ones in after heating the shell to expand the metal. Too easy. You do not need a press.|||I suspect that this is a bearing and hub assembly - sold only as an assembly.
No press needed - just a Gold Master Card.
How much does it cost to change wheel bearing on a '01 Hyundai Elantra?
It%26#039;s just the front left side..Thnx in advance|||If you can change it yourself it will cost between 38 and 65 dollars if you purchase from Napa Auto Parts. This is before tax. If you can%26#039;t do the work then tack on another 200 dollars for labor and cleanup.|||about 250 including parts
hope you dont need extras like a driveshaft gaiter!
hope you dont need extras like a driveshaft gaiter!
Is it difficult to change out a wheel bearing on a 91 Jetta?
I need to commandeer my dads 91 Jetta. Apparently, the left had side front wheel bearing went out and it needs to be replaced. Also, the struts are bad but I%26#039;m focusing on the wheel bearing for now.
My question is, how difficult is it to change the wheel bearing out? I am fairly proficient with cars.. Bascily, how long will it take?|||here is a repair guide that tell how!
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairG鈥?/a>
have fun!|||The part that will be difficult for you is that you need to press the hub out of the bearing using a press. And press the old bearing out of the knuckle after that. A lot of times the hub is so badly pitted that if you install it into a new bearing there will still be excessive movement. Then your really screwed because you have to press it all back apart again, and this process ruins your new bearing you just installed. So if the hub looks hammered at all the first time, replace it, before installing it and finding out its bad too.
So basically you can remove the knuckle yourself, then take the assembly to a place that has a press, and when their done, put the knuckle back in yourself.
Also, you are doing half the work of replacing the struts, by taking out the knuckle. But then your going to need to find a place that has a spring compressor so you can swap strut assemblies. I would suggest replacing the bearing on the top of the strut assembly during that process. They go bad frequently, and yours will probably fall apart when you take the strut assembly apart.|||front wheel drive easy to replace whole axle and just as cheap as a bearing and many cases its the only way to do it not too hard and dont mess with the strut unless your sure of what your doing very deady if not done right|||Roughly about 2 hr. Yes it is not a easy one on the front. The rear is p i s s
My question is, how difficult is it to change the wheel bearing out? I am fairly proficient with cars.. Bascily, how long will it take?|||here is a repair guide that tell how!
http://www.autozone.com/shopping/repairG鈥?/a>
have fun!|||The part that will be difficult for you is that you need to press the hub out of the bearing using a press. And press the old bearing out of the knuckle after that. A lot of times the hub is so badly pitted that if you install it into a new bearing there will still be excessive movement. Then your really screwed because you have to press it all back apart again, and this process ruins your new bearing you just installed. So if the hub looks hammered at all the first time, replace it, before installing it and finding out its bad too.
So basically you can remove the knuckle yourself, then take the assembly to a place that has a press, and when their done, put the knuckle back in yourself.
Also, you are doing half the work of replacing the struts, by taking out the knuckle. But then your going to need to find a place that has a spring compressor so you can swap strut assemblies. I would suggest replacing the bearing on the top of the strut assembly during that process. They go bad frequently, and yours will probably fall apart when you take the strut assembly apart.|||front wheel drive easy to replace whole axle and just as cheap as a bearing and many cases its the only way to do it not too hard and dont mess with the strut unless your sure of what your doing very deady if not done right|||Roughly about 2 hr. Yes it is not a easy one on the front. The rear is p i s s
What is the torque specs for a 2005 Buick Rendezvous front wheel bearing?
bad ABS sensor on front passenger side 2005 AWD Buick Rendezvous. must change wheel bearing and need torque specs.|||if you mean the axle nut then all i do is put all my weight on a breaker bar and cheater pipe to tighten it. they never came loose.
How do I change the front wheel bearing on a '98 Vauxhall Corsa?
I need to change my wheel bearing, but would like to be given a few pointers before I do it. What will I need? (got the bearing and the tools) I think I just need to get grease. All tips very welcome.
Thanks.|||The bearing usually comes with grease, though you might want to add a little more...
As was mentioned get yourself Haynes manual|||Get yourself a repair manual from your local auto parts store.
Haynes or Chiltons, specific to your vehicle.
All info and pic id of parts as well as step by step instructions.
Excellent investment and learning/teaching tool.|||it would made it a lot easier if you bought the hub with the bearing already in it but since you already got the bearing you have to remove the hub and have the old 1 pressed in and the new 1 pressed in.|||You won%26#039;t have to worry about grease because it is a sealed bearing. You will have to have the bearing pressed out. You can save yourself some money by taking the hub assembly off the car and taking it and the new bearing into a shop and having the old bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in. You have to take all the brake hardware off the hub, then the tie rod, It would be best if you use spring compressors if not be very carefull of the spring pressure, then jack the hub assembly up from the bottom of the hub so you can get the ball joint disconnected from the bottom of the hub (if you don%26#039;t have the spring compressed here the pressure will push the jack towards the outside of the car as soon as the ball joint is released). After that you will have to remove the top nut on the front strut which holds the assembly into the top of the fender well. After you get this all disconnected take the whole assembly and get the new bearing pressed in. Assembly in reverse. If you don%26#039;t take out the whole assembly you will have to have the front end aligned when you are done.
Thanks.|||The bearing usually comes with grease, though you might want to add a little more...
As was mentioned get yourself Haynes manual|||Get yourself a repair manual from your local auto parts store.
Haynes or Chiltons, specific to your vehicle.
All info and pic id of parts as well as step by step instructions.
Excellent investment and learning/teaching tool.|||it would made it a lot easier if you bought the hub with the bearing already in it but since you already got the bearing you have to remove the hub and have the old 1 pressed in and the new 1 pressed in.|||You won%26#039;t have to worry about grease because it is a sealed bearing. You will have to have the bearing pressed out. You can save yourself some money by taking the hub assembly off the car and taking it and the new bearing into a shop and having the old bearing pressed out and the new one pressed in. You have to take all the brake hardware off the hub, then the tie rod, It would be best if you use spring compressors if not be very carefull of the spring pressure, then jack the hub assembly up from the bottom of the hub so you can get the ball joint disconnected from the bottom of the hub (if you don%26#039;t have the spring compressed here the pressure will push the jack towards the outside of the car as soon as the ball joint is released). After that you will have to remove the top nut on the front strut which holds the assembly into the top of the fender well. After you get this all disconnected take the whole assembly and get the new bearing pressed in. Assembly in reverse. If you don%26#039;t take out the whole assembly you will have to have the front end aligned when you are done.
Is it easier to change the Wheel Bearing or the Wheel Hub Assembly on a car?
I got a wheel bearing going out and the dealership said it will cost $900 to change. Is it difficult to change myself? Do I need a hydraulic press? Trying to save some money rather than spend $900 bucks. Please help!|||You cannot just change the bearing as you do not have the proper tools . That how ever does not mean you have to get the dealer do the job . If there is a NAPA Auto Parts around , check with them for an authorized NAPA care center . If no NAPA , check with any local parts store . They will be able to recommend a good reliable shop and bet it will be a lot cheaper than dealership .|||You will probably need a hydraulic press... youre best bet is to call around and get other quotes..|||It would help to know what kind of car you have and if it%26#039;s a front or back wheel. $900 to change a wheel bearing is a big time rip off. If you have a front wheel drive car and a back wheel bearing is going bad, the outer bearing will come right out after you take the big nut off. The inner bearing is held in by the grease seal. You%26#039;ll have to pull the brake drum off the car to get access to the inner bearing. If you want to salvage the seal and not damage the bearing take a putty knife and put the long edge of the putty knife between the seal and the hub and tap the putty knife in to get the seal started out. Go all around the hub doing that then you can take a screw driver and pry around the hub and get the seal out and when it%26#039;s out the bearing will then come out. You can probably get your new bearing at Autozone. You will have to pack the bearing with grease. This involves more than just rubbing grease on the bearing, it has to be forced in around the rollers. Have a mechanic some where show you how to do it. It%26#039;s easy but hard to explain. While you have the outer bearing out you might as well clean it off and repack it too. I clean them with gasoline and a tooth brush and blow all remaining crap out of the bearing with compressed air. Don%26#039;t blow the air on the bearing and make it spin real fast because that can damage the bearing. I have never dealt with bearings on the front of a front wheel drive. The easiest thing for you to do is go to a junk yard and get a good hub, bearings and all, off a junked car and put it on, case closed, or if you want to keep your hub you can try to get the old bearings off or ask some one about getting them off at a garage. Those bearings are usually permanently sealed and don%26#039;t need repacked. Good luck.
How do i change a wheel bearing on a honda rancher?
I have a 2000 honda rancher es and i have to change the front right wheel bearing. I have every thing off down to the bearing and the old bearing out. I have no idea how to get the new one in, it won%26#039;t fit over the axle. I%26#039;m new at this and have been trying to figure this out for about 2 hours so any help is greatly appreciated.|||Get some emery cloth used to clean up metal , and clean the front axle with the emery cloth and penetrating oil . If it is cleaned up it should be snug but go on .
Will changing a front wheel bearing eventually cause a CV joint to fail on a 2003 Yukon?
no..not changing a bad bearing will.|||I acant see any reason it would. Matter of fact, if the bearing is bad, the CV joint will fail sooner
I am changing wheel bearing on 2005 Impala. Stuck on getting cv joint clamp off. Any suggestions?
Ok, first of all, why are you taking the CV joint clamp off? You don%26#039;t have to touch it to remove a bearing.
Normal way to remove a wheel bearing on the front of a GM car:
Remove tire
Remove caliper and bracket
Hang caliper and bracket from something other than the brake hose
Remove the rotor
Remove the axle nut
Disconnect ABS connector
Remove 3 bolts holding wheel bearing to spindle
Remove bearing assy
Install new bearing assy
Install 3 bolts and tighten evenly
Install axle nut and torque to spec (usually 160 ft/lbs)
Connect ABS connector
Install rotor
Install brake caliper and bracket
Install wheel and torque bolts to 100 ft/lbs
Test drive|||Use some diagonals and cut it.|||you have to cut it,go to the parts store and get a new zip-lock clamp,its real simple to use,good luck
Normal way to remove a wheel bearing on the front of a GM car:
Remove tire
Remove caliper and bracket
Hang caliper and bracket from something other than the brake hose
Remove the rotor
Remove the axle nut
Disconnect ABS connector
Remove 3 bolts holding wheel bearing to spindle
Remove bearing assy
Install new bearing assy
Install 3 bolts and tighten evenly
Install axle nut and torque to spec (usually 160 ft/lbs)
Connect ABS connector
Install rotor
Install brake caliper and bracket
Install wheel and torque bolts to 100 ft/lbs
Test drive|||Use some diagonals and cut it.|||you have to cut it,go to the parts store and get a new zip-lock clamp,its real simple to use,good luck
Need info on changing wheel bearing ***. on my 93 olds?
have the bearing assembly
just not sure about tearing into it and getting stuck
has A B S|||parts stores have haynes / chiltons manuals about $25, step by step with pictures|||not much to it. it just bolts in place. have to remove the brake caliper, rotor and axle nut. piece of cake.
just not sure about tearing into it and getting stuck
has A B S|||parts stores have haynes / chiltons manuals about $25, step by step with pictures|||not much to it. it just bolts in place. have to remove the brake caliper, rotor and axle nut. piece of cake.
Changing wheel bearing?? help pls:)?
hey id like to change both the wheel bearings on the front of my holden barina 2008. can someone point me in a direction and how much are they usually. im from australia :)|||I believe your car is front wheel drive based on the Daewoo.Loosen both front wheels jack the car up,support the body with blocks or trestles and remove the jack.Slacken the big nut on the end of the CV Joint.Remove the brake calliper (no need to disconnect the hydraulic brake pipe,just support the calliper)..Undo the track rod end and the top and bottom ball joint nuts and break the tapered connections.Remove the CV joint nut and tap the CV joint back through the hub and remove the hub.On a bench and in a vice remove the bearing by using a steel drift to knock out the inner tracks.Refit the new bearings by using a phosphorous bronze drift if you don%26#039;t have a press.You can use the old tracks to start the bearing in the hub and then evenly tap the bearing home.Refitting is a reversal of removal|||if it is front wheel drive it is not a do-it-yourself job as it needs a 15 ton press to get the old bearings off and the new ones on, if it is rear wheel drive then the bearings are adjustable but you still need a press to get the old race off and the new one on, there is no way a 2008 car would need new bearings unless something catastrophic has happened, they last 160000Km|||unless you are a mechanic, its better to pay for someone to do it for you, and car bearings and semi expensive, labor generally isnt, but they usually go by hour so its up to you. srry this isnt really helpful, but ive done bearings on a couple things other than cars, and its tuff.
How hard is it to change a wheel sensor bearing on a 2003 chvy malibu.?
Or how is it done, what is involved in changing it, the wheel bearing with an abs sensor?|||1.remove tire.
2.remove brake caliper and mounting bracket.
3.remove brake rotor.
4.remove 34mm axle nut.
5.remove outer tie rod from steering knuckle.
6.remove 4 bolts or 3 from behind steering knuckle.
7 remove bearing assembly(disconnect abs sensor connector).
8.hub may be need to be pressed out and pressed in to new unit unless you purchased bearing and hub assembly.
9. assembly is reverse of removal. good luck
2.remove brake caliper and mounting bracket.
3.remove brake rotor.
4.remove 34mm axle nut.
5.remove outer tie rod from steering knuckle.
6.remove 4 bolts or 3 from behind steering knuckle.
7 remove bearing assembly(disconnect abs sensor connector).
8.hub may be need to be pressed out and pressed in to new unit unless you purchased bearing and hub assembly.
9. assembly is reverse of removal. good luck
Do you need a press to change wheel bearing on 03 protege?
I need a new front wheel bearing and i can install ot if you don%26#039;t need a press to get it in and out of the hub. I know some cars need it and others don%26#039;t. is mine?|||most of them are pressed into the hub.
How do you change a worn wheel bearing on a 2003 Suburban?
My original question was %26quot;What%26#039;s causing a roaring noise on my Suburban;%26quot; but my question was answered with a similar question. So now that I know it%26#039;s a worn wheel bearing, my question is %26quot;How do you change the wheel bearing?%26quot; I%26#039;ve always done most of my vehicle maintenance, including changing the oil, belt(s), hoses, thermostat, etc. (basic things). Now I think I would like to tackle the bearings. If someone can give me a little guidance, it would be appreciated. |||Front or Rear?
The front, you need to punch out the bearing races and pound in the new ones, easy but takes time. There are areas inside that will allow you to get in a punch.
The rear you%26#039;ll need to pull the shaft and take it to a mechanic to have the old one pressed off and the new one pressed on.
As mentioned before, getting a manual is your first priority. If you don%26#039;t have one by now, how can you do your own maintenance?|||If you know how to do a brake job, you can tackle the job yourself. You may want to get yourself a repair manual if you have not replace the brake before. There are two bearings on each wheel. Since it is a 2003, it may have a seal bearing and must replace the whole hub assembly and could get a little costly. You%26#039;ll just have to go visit your local auto part store and they%26#039;ll be able to tell what you have.
Auto Zone advertised that they%26#039;ll print out directions on how to install the parts they sell. That maybe the best start for ya.|||go to car parts store and get a manual, chiltons or haynes manual on your make and model of your car, it will tell u everything and u can go step by step with it and even have pictures to help you
it is worth every penny
go get one now|||is it a sealed wheel bearing.if it is change the wheel hub.
The front, you need to punch out the bearing races and pound in the new ones, easy but takes time. There are areas inside that will allow you to get in a punch.
The rear you%26#039;ll need to pull the shaft and take it to a mechanic to have the old one pressed off and the new one pressed on.
As mentioned before, getting a manual is your first priority. If you don%26#039;t have one by now, how can you do your own maintenance?|||If you know how to do a brake job, you can tackle the job yourself. You may want to get yourself a repair manual if you have not replace the brake before. There are two bearings on each wheel. Since it is a 2003, it may have a seal bearing and must replace the whole hub assembly and could get a little costly. You%26#039;ll just have to go visit your local auto part store and they%26#039;ll be able to tell what you have.
Auto Zone advertised that they%26#039;ll print out directions on how to install the parts they sell. That maybe the best start for ya.|||go to car parts store and get a manual, chiltons or haynes manual on your make and model of your car, it will tell u everything and u can go step by step with it and even have pictures to help you
it is worth every penny
go get one now|||is it a sealed wheel bearing.if it is change the wheel hub.
Has anyone had the experience in changing the rear wheel bearing on a Merc Sprinter 3-11?
I%26#039;m having to do this job real soon and hoped someone could give me a very rough insight in the basic procedure. I%26#039;m not used to working on rear wheel drives !|||What about purchasing a Haynes Manual from your local motoring outlet or off eBay? It will tell you how to do the job and how difficult it is.
I hope this helps being as it seems no-one else answered your question :o(
Jeri x
I hope this helps being as it seems no-one else answered your question :o(
Jeri x
Changing front wheel bearing on escort?
Can anyone tell me how to change the front wheel bearing on a 95 escort at home?
is it possible and how?
Any answers welcome pics etc thanks|||its possible ...but u will need some specialty tools.....and some knowledge......we like to see guys that want to do their own work....but this is a level 4 job (on a 1-10 scale)...and we think this may be over your head (tool and know how wise)....find someone who may have the tools ....we can walk u through the steps but ,u may damage some parts while trying to repair this......so if u attempt this be careful|||those are pressed in. you will have to take the bearing and hub into a machine shop to have the old ones pressed out and new ones pressed in.
is it possible and how?
Any answers welcome pics etc thanks|||its possible ...but u will need some specialty tools.....and some knowledge......we like to see guys that want to do their own work....but this is a level 4 job (on a 1-10 scale)...and we think this may be over your head (tool and know how wise)....find someone who may have the tools ....we can walk u through the steps but ,u may damage some parts while trying to repair this......so if u attempt this be careful|||those are pressed in. you will have to take the bearing and hub into a machine shop to have the old ones pressed out and new ones pressed in.
Help with changing a wheel bearing?
how do you change a front wheel bearing on a 1995 pontiac sunfire.|||buy a 15 dollar hayes manual|||This is a front wheel drive car you%26#039;ll need to take it to a machine shop to have the bearing pressed in. Jack up and support the car. Remove the wheel. Remove the axel nut clip. Using a breaker bar, crack the axel nut loose. Remove the king nuts to the upper and lower ball joints to seperate from the control arm. Support this whole assembly!! Use a nut cracker to remove the ball joint knuckles. Remove the axel nut and pull the steering knuckle assembly off. Take to a shop to have the new bearing installed.|||the bearings arent pressed in there pretty easy to do remove the tire and your brake assembly including rotor,remove your cv axel nut and it should be about three or four torc bit screws that hold in your wheel bearing hub have a heavy hammer ready cuz you usually have to beat them out,hope this helps
I need step by step instructions on changing a wheel bearing hub assembly on a 01 explorer sport 4wd?
I need to know is the hub assembly all i need or do i need an axle bearing or some kinda seal kit too. what tools do i need (socket size, special seal pullers or special stuff). this is the fourth bearing on the front passenger side so this time im doin it myself. i know for a fact the dealer%26#039;s been using an impact gun instead of torquing. what is the torque i need. please help if u can|||BUY A CHILTONS MANUAL AT YOUR LOCAL PARTS HOUSE, ITS ONLY ABOUT 20$ AND IT WILL GIVE YOU ALL THE SPECS|||its a wheel bearing dude if u dont know what your doing around it just get someone that does know. it should only take .5 - 1 hour at the most to do complete that and possibly u might need a puller
1997 Ford Escort changing Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly w/ drum breaks?
1997 Ford Escort changing Rear Wheel Bearing Assembly w/ drum breaks?
1) do you have to press the bearings out?
2) if yes, is there any other way?|||yes--no
1) do you have to press the bearings out?
2) if yes, is there any other way?|||yes--no
Suzuki 2003 xl7 vibration after changing wheel bearing?
changed wheel bearing the noise is gone but the vibration is still there .
and balance the wheel what could this be? help pleas|||Balance and check ALL the wheels/tires.
and balance the wheel what could this be? help pleas|||Balance and check ALL the wheels/tires.
Changing a rear wheel bearing on a Mark 1 Ford Focus?
Was just wondering if anyone knew a step by step guide (preferably with pictures) for changing a rear wheel bearing on a T reg Focus?
It%26#039;s got disks on the rear. Thanks.|||Most rear wheel bearings are similar to do on most cars.Remove the road wheel after jacking up and blocking the car for safety.Remove the brake disc( if it,s separate from the hub where the bearing is) and the brake calliper.Don%26#039;t disconnect the brake pipes.Support the brake calliper don%26#039;t let it hang.Remove the grease cap on the hub and remove the split pin that is locking the nut holding the hub on or straighten the locking tab.Undo the nut and remove the flat washer behind the nut then pull,lever or tap the hub containing the bearing off from the stub axle.Remove the hub.The front bearing will come out in your hand as will the rear bearing once you remove the grease seal from the other end of the hub leaving the bearing tracks in the hub.To get these tracks out you need to drift them out with a chisel tapping from side to side evenly.To fit the new bearings you need to fit the tracks first and to do this you can start by using the old tracks as a drift until started,then use a brass drift or something similar to finally tap the track against the stop.Grease the inner bearings well and fit them into the tracks and then fit the grease seal.Refit the hub.Refit the washer and tighten the nut--i have given you advice for a tapered bearing and for this type of bearing the lock nut must not be overtightened but only tightened moderately to line everything up then backed off till free and then only nipped up slightly say 1/4 turn.If it,s a parallel bearing which i doubt the nut must be done up tightly|||I would take it to a garage if you are unsure of what you are doing.|||To be honest with you and I know there will be other people out there that will probably give me stick for saying it but I would advice you get a Haynes manual for the car.
This will show you step by step how to do the job along with just about everything you need to know about your car.
Ja.|||I thought you said it was an old one car, I suppose for a Focus is.
If you are fairly handy with a set of spanners, just get on with it. Do it indoors, because you will almost certainly need a tool that you haven%26#039;t got.
I have NEVER found that a Haynes manual any good, the work in ideal conditions, you will not be.|||You have three useless answers all ready, from complete idiots ,so here is another , just leave it,it should sort it self out in time .|||jason is right on getting a haynes book on your car at auto zone. it will show you pictures and also tell you what to do. that way anytime you need to work on your car you will have the book to go by.
It%26#039;s got disks on the rear. Thanks.|||Most rear wheel bearings are similar to do on most cars.Remove the road wheel after jacking up and blocking the car for safety.Remove the brake disc( if it,s separate from the hub where the bearing is) and the brake calliper.Don%26#039;t disconnect the brake pipes.Support the brake calliper don%26#039;t let it hang.Remove the grease cap on the hub and remove the split pin that is locking the nut holding the hub on or straighten the locking tab.Undo the nut and remove the flat washer behind the nut then pull,lever or tap the hub containing the bearing off from the stub axle.Remove the hub.The front bearing will come out in your hand as will the rear bearing once you remove the grease seal from the other end of the hub leaving the bearing tracks in the hub.To get these tracks out you need to drift them out with a chisel tapping from side to side evenly.To fit the new bearings you need to fit the tracks first and to do this you can start by using the old tracks as a drift until started,then use a brass drift or something similar to finally tap the track against the stop.Grease the inner bearings well and fit them into the tracks and then fit the grease seal.Refit the hub.Refit the washer and tighten the nut--i have given you advice for a tapered bearing and for this type of bearing the lock nut must not be overtightened but only tightened moderately to line everything up then backed off till free and then only nipped up slightly say 1/4 turn.If it,s a parallel bearing which i doubt the nut must be done up tightly|||I would take it to a garage if you are unsure of what you are doing.|||To be honest with you and I know there will be other people out there that will probably give me stick for saying it but I would advice you get a Haynes manual for the car.
This will show you step by step how to do the job along with just about everything you need to know about your car.
Ja.|||I thought you said it was an old one car, I suppose for a Focus is.
If you are fairly handy with a set of spanners, just get on with it. Do it indoors, because you will almost certainly need a tool that you haven%26#039;t got.
I have NEVER found that a Haynes manual any good, the work in ideal conditions, you will not be.|||You have three useless answers all ready, from complete idiots ,so here is another , just leave it,it should sort it self out in time .|||jason is right on getting a haynes book on your car at auto zone. it will show you pictures and also tell you what to do. that way anytime you need to work on your car you will have the book to go by.
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